Wednesday, April 30, 2008

The Kyrgyz Pavaratti?

This is from last weekend, but I've only just now gotten around to uploading all the video clips necessary for this post. Last Sunday was the 25th anniversary performance of Сталбек Алмасбеков (Stalbek Almasbekov), the premier opera singer of Kyrgyzstan. He's also the father of one of my former students. This student now studies with Matthew, and decided to invite both of us to his father's performance. We received free tickets and prime seats in the fifth row, center. Too bad I'm rather a philistine and not all that big into opera. Anyway, while I'm ertainly no judge of operatic quality, he seemed to be an exceptional singer. I took numerous photos (below), although since it *was* opera after all, I took some videos as well, and have uploaded three short clips to YouTube. The show consisted of two abridged operas, Сельская честь (Village Honor) and Паяцы (Pagliacci).
Photobucket
Stalbek Almasbekov sings Village Honor


Stalbek Almasbekov sings Village Honor



Stalbek Almasbekov sings Village Honor


Photobucket
Stalbek Almasbekov sings Pagliacci



Stalbek Almasbekov sings Pagliacci

Tuesday, April 29, 2008

In which I go to Kochkor and get ridiculously sunburnt

[As often happens here, I took way too many pictures this weekend to post all of them on my blog. Only a small handful appear below. To see the complete set please CLICK HERE.]

This week is our Spring Break, and as such, most of us are going on various travels around Kyrgyzstan. I had planned to spend three days in Kochkor, wandering about, trying to find and ride Bitchy Horse. Katy’s friend Carolyn flew in from Germany on Thursday, and soon they, plus Ben Junior and Matthew, had decided to join me in Kochkor. I was the only one who spent two nights in Kochkor; Ben and Matthew returned to Bishkek Sunday afternoon, and Katy and Carolyn set off for Karakol on Sunday morning. I returned to Bishkek Monday afternoon. That’s the short version. Here’s the long one:

We left for the Zapodny Avtovokzal (the western bus station) at around 9am on Saturday morning, and less than five minutes into our taxi ride, I began to feel carsick. This happens to me quite often, although very rarely does it occur so quickly and when I am sitting in the front passenger seat. By the time we got to the bus station, I was pretty convinced I was going to vomit, although I didn’t. We managed to negotiate a somewhat overpriced van to take the five of us to Kochkor, and I again snagged the front seat. Unfortunately, the driver had the worst bad breath of anyone I’d ever met, which did nothing to help my nausea. Luckily, I was somehow able to will myself into sleep and managed to keep from being violently ill. However, when we arrived in Kochkor, I was still feeling pretty ill. Unfortunately, Katy wasn’t doing well either, as she was in the beginning stages of a migraine. Ben was feeling a little carsick, too. We weren’t the healthiest bunch when we wandered into the Kochkor CBT office.

Kochkor CBT manages a store where shyrdaks – traditional Kyrgyz felt rugs – made by local women are sold. (It’s where I bought my shyrdak on my way
back from Naryn.)

shyrdak shopping!
Shyrdaks!

Matthew’s reason for coming to Kochkor had been to purchase a shyrdak, and he and Carolyn spent quite a bit of time in the store trying to decide on which shyrdaks to purchase. We all made purchases, actually. I bought an incredibly awesome wool-felt hat in which I look like a Mongol warrior. Or a crazy person. I need to get a photo of it.

After purchasing our various felt items, we headed for our homestay, also arranged through CBT. I *love* CBT, although I must say that their map of Kochkor leaves a bit to be desired, and we got a bit lost on our way to our homestay. Luckily, we ran across three schoolboys who seemed utterly thrilled to have to opportunity to guide us to our destination.

The day was absolutely beautiful, and we were eager to enjoy the countryside outside of the small town. After settling into our homestay and picnicking on the plethora of food we’d dragged along from Bishkek, we decided to take a walk to the river just north of town. First we found what was almost a perfect spot: a freshwater spring, bubbling up from the earth, feeding a stream which flowed north towards the river. (In fact, quite a large area of the earth seemed to be leaching freshwater.) Unfortunately, much of this area was polluted with garbage. We did find a mostly trash-free spot to sit and relax for a while before continuing our trek to the river.

freshwater spring, just north of Kochkor
The places without trash were beautiful.

freshwater spring, just north of Kochkor
I wish I could turn this area into a park... Or at least keep it clean.

We all got a bit muddy wandering through the mucky swamp-like ground approaching the river, but the views were definitely worth it.

just north of Kochkor
Looking south towards Kochkor

just north of Kochkor
The Chuy river north of Kochkor

As we were sitting by the river enjoying the view, we were approached by a group of boys... a couple ran away to fetch their friends, and soon we were surrounded by a group of about 10 or so boys, who were all eager to show off for us.

just north of Kochkor

Eventually we decided to head back to the homestay. This meant hiking back across the bizarrely contoured field/swamp/spring land which separates Kochkor from the river. This also meant many more opportunities for photos.

just north of Kochkor

Back in Kochkor proper, I got quite a few more photos as well:
Lenin
Ubiquitous Lenin.

cool kochkor gate
I love this shot.

That night we had dinner at our homestay (it cost 150soms, and was definitely worth it), then went to bed pretty early. The next day, after spending a good chunk of the morning taking pictures and playing with our host family’s children, Katy and Carolyn set off for Karakol, Ben and Matthew returned to Bishkek, and I met up with Maksat, the horse-guide, and set off for the nearby village of Kara-Suu.

homestay's daughter
The homestay family's daughter

Kara-Suu
Kara-Suu, located just outside of Kochkor,
is the village where my horse-ride began.

Maksat remembered me, and he remembered the whole situation with Jessica falling off her horse, switching with me, and the fact that I’d named it Bitchy Horse. What he didn’t remember was which horse was Bitchy Horse or where they’d gotten it from. So, alas, no Bitchy Horse. The horse I got wasn’t a bad horse; it was well behaved, but lazy. I could only get it to canter when we were headed for home :-) We rode for several hours – yet again the weather was perfect. We headed across farmland and up into the foothills, following a mountain stream. I didn’t take too many pictures, as horseback photography is difficult. I did get several; some are below, the rest are on flickr.

horse trek, south of Kochkor
Horse cam!

horse trek, south of Kochkor
My horse of the day

horse trek, south of Kochkor
These damn straps used to keep the blankets on the saddle bruised the hell out of my inner thighs :-(

horse trek, south of Kochkor
The views were wonderful

After returning to the homestay following my ride, I was utterly exhausted, and feeling the initial pains of a sunburn. I did as I often do, and I took a nice three hour nap to recuperate. I awoke feeling refreshed and yet in quite a lot of pain. I took a look in the mirror and saw a Jane-shaped lobster. This is probably the worst sunburn I’ve had since high school – and of course, it comes in the form of a farmer’s tan/burn. Sigh. I hurt.

hellish farmer's tan/burn
Hi, I'm Farmer-Lobster!

Despite being burnt, I figured I should spend the last few hours of daylight wandering about the town. I didn’t take too many pictures, but I did get some interesting ones of the mosque and an abandoned former gas station.

Kochkor mosque
Kochkor Mosque

derelict gas station, kochkor
I love derelict gas stations.

That evening I realized that I’d spent the bulk of my food money on the super awesome Mongol warrior hat. I told my hosts that I wouldn’t be needing dinner that night, and planned to spend the evening reading and snacking on the cheese and chocolate which I’d brought from Bishkek. Around 9pm, the teenage daughter of the family brought me a plate of beshbarmak (a traditional Kyrgyz dish of large noodles and mutton) and said that it was a gift from the family. The next morning I was invited to have breakfast with the family, instead of alone in my room. They were all incredibly nice people, and I was quite grateful to be able to eat!

After breakfast, I made my way to the center of Kochkor, and snagged a spot in a marshrutka headed for Bishkek. It was a lovely weekend, even if I thoroughly fried my skin. I’ll be heading for Karakol with Ben Junior, Fullbright Kimberly and Sara Beach from the American Home in Vladimir on Thursday morning for the second leg of my vacation! In the interim, please check out my full Kochkor set of 82 photos by
CLICKING HERE :-)







Tuesday, April 22, 2008

En vino veritas

I am not going to tell the full story of what befell us on Saturday night, as the story itself isn’t really mine for the telling. My role was peripheral, and as such, my coverage of the events shall be as well.

My friends had decided to spend another evening out at the rock club Zeppelin; however, as we’d been there the night before, and as I was feeling decidedly head-coldy following my walk-n-ride, I decided to stay home. After a couple of hours sobbing my way through Battlestar Galactica reruns (in preparation for my attempt to acquire parts of season 4), followed by a few minutes of escapist mystery reading, the power went out. No surprise there; it’s been going out every evening around midnight. I figured that was a sign that I should go to bed. Not five minutes later, a loud ruckus from the courtyard convinced me that perhaps I should be out and about.

Let’s just say that a former Kyrgyz friend of ours had imbibed way too much, causing him to turn into an angry, belligerent monster. And monsters have a tendency to attack. Four of us ended up holed up in Katy’s room, recovering while the fiend rampaged. Eventually said fiend passed out in the backseat of his car. Extra points go to Ben Jr for excellent sneaking skills, even if he was lacking in locating-passed-out-monsters-in-cars skills, and for use of the word ‘jumpers’ in a tight spot. The night could have been disastrous. As it was, it was thoroughly unnerving and distressing, but we managed to find humor in a lot of it.

We continued to find humor in the morning, when we discovered that not only was the monster still hanging about, but he and our alleged night guard (who had done next to nothing to assist us the night before) were drinking Devyatki (a super strong beer) at 10am. Thanks a lot, guard. Way to do your job. By noon the two of them were completely hammered, and lurking at the café across the street, waiting for a certain member of our party to emerge. (In fact, when two of our group tried to leave, they ended up essentially chased into my apartment by ye olde monster. My apologies to them for the fact that I had not yet cleaned the litter boxes at that point. My apartment was a bit stinky.)

The four of us decided that we did not wish to be trapped inside all day. Unfortunately, there is only one entrance/exit to the school’s “compound” – and the monster and his drinking buddy were waiting in direct view of it. So, we decided to get a bit creative, and snuck out over the back wall.
Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

After achieving our freedom, we bought a two-liter of tan and some plastic cups and headed to a nearby park to enjoy freedom and the company of the sane and sober. We’re also thinking about taking some sort of self defense class.

A free ride?

Saturday afternoon, despite the beginnings of a head cold, I decided that the day was too beautiful to spend indoors. I walked south along towards Sovietskaya, in the direction of Park Pobedy in order to see what I could find. Along my way, I took some more Lada pics, a shot of the vet clinic where I got Lucy spayed, and a nice shot of an alleyway, just west of Sovietskaya.
Photobucket
This is my vet clinic.
It's located in the basement of this building.

Photobucket
More Lada goodness :-)

Photobucket
And they do come in colors other than green and orange...

Photobucket
One thing I love about Bishkek is that when you get a block off of a main street, it's like you're in a rural village.

When I reached Park Pobedy, I decided to continue following Sovietskaya (or whatever name the street takes on at that point) southwards, past the park. Just after I passed the southern boundary of Park Pobedy, I crossed Sovietskaya and entered a grassy area, filled with sheep.
Photobucket
Sheep!

Photobucket
More sheep! (It was kind of garbagy, but unlike the cow in Naryn, they were at least eating the grass from around the trash.)

Photobucket
These guys weren't shy!

Photobucket
You can see how close I was to the edge of the city.

Soon I became aware of the sound of some kind of heavy machinery, and as such, I was not too surprised when I emerged at the edge of a huge quarry of some kind. I walked along the edge of the quarry for some ways, although the depth of the quarry coupled with the high mountains rising in the distance gave me a rather uncertain feeling of vertigo.
Photobucket
I'd just finished reading Q is for Quarry, so I found this super unnerving.

I turned away from the quarry, and wandered eastward until I was stopped by an empty and thoroughly uninspiring canal, which is allegedly the “Southern Big Chuy Canal.”
Photobucket
Big empy ass canal.

The mountains behind the canal were pretty, though.
Photobucket

I decided to follow the canal back towards the city. Eventually, I found a small footbridge, and in the distance I saw a ferris wheel. It occurred to me that, safety not withstanding, I might be able to get a decent picture from atop said ferris wheel, so off I marched in that direction. Eventually I came across a small (and seemingly permanent) carnival. I hadn’t brought much money with me, but as it was only 20soms for a whirl on the wheel, I decided to give it a go.
Photobucket
My first view of the ferris wheel

Photobucket
A much closer look

Photobucket
The mountains as seen from atop the ferris wheel

Photobucket
The carnival from above

Photobucket
Inside the wheel




Photobucket
On the downslope

Photobucket
After disembarking and all...

The “carnival” was home to a small collection of rather decrepit, albeit functioning, rides, and a beer and shashlik tent. I was feeling rather hungry and wishing I’d brought along enough dough for some shashlik, when I noticed a horse and pony next to the beer/shashlik tent. For a meager fee, one could be led around on either equine – a totally boring sort of ride; I wasn’t interested. However, the horse was gorgeous and the pony was adorable. I snapped a quick distance shot of the horse, as one of its handlers was on it, and I didn’t want to draw attention to myself.
Photobucket

Then I wandered over to where the pony was tethered and grazing. Before whipping out my camera, I thought I’d befriend the little thing – he was SO cute and tiny, in the Shetland-pony style. Unfortunately, before I could get around to photographing this cute gem of horsehood, one of the horse-handlers approached me and started encouraging me to take a ride on the large horse. The following conversation occurred in Russian.

“Come on, ride this horse. That one’s too small.”

“I don’t need to, thanks.”

“Oh, come on. You should try everything at least once.”

“I’ve ridden horses many times, I don’t need to be led around like a child.”

“For you, it’s free.”

Ahh, those magic words. “Oh, okay. Why not.”

So I hopped up on this rather large Palomino, and while I at least got to hold the reins (unlike others I’d seen, clutching tightly to the pommel), the handler still held the reins near the bit. He asked me when and where I’d ridden before, and I told him that when I was little, my family had horses.

“Do you know how to go fast?”

“Of course!”

Then things got a little odd. The next thing I knew, this guy was on the horse behind me, with his arms wrapped around me. On the plus side, I had full control of the reins. On the minus side, he was a little too close for comfort, if you know what I mean. We rode around the field behind the carnival, cantering at top speeds. That was one powerful horse – and I never would have guessed from the way it had been just placidly being led around. The horse seemed quite thrilled to be allowed to do something other than just plod about, and was racing about with its ears pricked forward and its neck arched. I would love to have gotten a shot of it like that, instead of the one I took. Unfortunately, the dude riding behind me was much more interested in me than in riding the horse. (He's not the one sitting on the horse in the picture above, by the way.) I’ve got to start lying and telling people that I’m married or at least that I have a boyfriend. Not that this guy was all that old – he was 36, which is a completely acceptable dating age for me, what with me being 29 and all – but despite his relative youth, he had a mouthful of gold teeth and looked more like 46 than 36… sadly, he was not attractive at all. He tried to convince me to come out with him later than night but I declined. He told me that we should get together some weekend and ride out into the mountains while the flowers were in bloom, just the two of us. As nice as that sounds, the rest of my weekend didn’t exactly leave me feeling as though going off into the Blue with Random Kyrgyz Dudes was a particularly good idea (that’ll be dealt with more in the next post). I did give him my phone number (why did I do that??), although you know me well enough to know that I won’t answer when he calls. I wanted to get a picture of him with the horse, but there were actual paying customers waiting when we returned to the carnival, and I didn’t want to encourage him. I didn’t even get any shots of the cute little pony either, such was my hurry to be gone.

More Cat Butt Pillow

Photobucket
Grey Cat isn't picky about whose butt she uses for a pillow.

Photobucket
Sometimes heads are OK too.

Photobucket
This is a crap photo, but that's because all three of them were in a pile on top of me when I took it!

Sunday, April 20, 2008

a crazy weekend just passed....

...and I'll write about it when I have time. Which might not be until Wednesday.

Wednesday, April 16, 2008

More pictures and some car lust

Photobucket
Tan (ТАН) is the most wonderful beverage in the world. The best way to describe it, however, makes it sound rather awful: it's like watery, carbonated buttermilk. Trust me, though, it's delicious. Buy it if you ever get the chance. The above bottle of tan is dill-flavored. I was worried it would be disgusting, but it's even more delicious than regular tan. I've been downing at least a liter a day. Awesomeness.

Photobucket
This gigantic statue of Frunze (wikipedia entry) is located just across the street from the Bishkek train station. He sits atop an eerily anatomically correct horse. You can't tell from this shot, though.

Photobucket
Bishkek train station - obviously taken facing the sun, sorry.

Photobucket
More train station. Too bad the Kyrgyz train system is so... truncated.
I want to buy an old green or orange Lada or Moskvich.
I've been stalking them around the city.

Photobucket
Moskvich #1

Photobucket
Still Moskvich #1

Photobucket
Moskvich #2

Photobucket
More Moskvich #2

Photobucket
A Lada. I think.

Photobucket
Lada #2 ("parallel parked" a good car's width from the curb)

Photobucket
Yum, more Lada.