Showing posts with label Russia. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Russia. Show all posts

Tuesday, February 08, 2011

Putin: The Japanime Rabbit Zek? (UPDATED!!)

While I was lounging about my apartment being ridiculously lazy for my lunar new year vacation, my cousin George took the ferry to Japan and had a merry old time. He also discovered (and photographed) this:

???

???

???

Now, can anyone explain this madness to me???
(P.S. zek (зек) means prisoner, in case you were wondering.)

UPDATE: Hahahaha - I found it!! Not that it really explains anything, although it does reinforce my belief that Japan is weird. Wikipedia explains here. Or you can watch the madness below. Enjoy!

Sunday, October 31, 2010

Wednesday, April 21, 2010

More on ethnic clashes in Kyrgyzstan

Here's an English language Reuters video and article on the ethnic clashes outside of Bishkek. I'd read elsewhere (can't remember where) that the Russians, knowing that the Turks were the focus of the crowd, painted "Russians" on their doors to keep the looters out... These two articles make the spraying of "Russians" on the doors out to be something a little different. where lies the truth?

More on the clashes on the outskirts of Bishkek

This article (in Russian) was so informative that I translated it for you:

Medvedev orders the Russian Defense Ministry to ensure the safety of Russians in Kyrgyzstan

Russian President Dmitry Medvedev has instructed the Defence Minister Anatoly Serdyukov to take measures to ensure the safety of Russian citizens in Kyrgyzstan, according to the Kremlin press service. In addition, the President ordered the Defense Ministry to strengthen the protection of Russian facilities due to the increasing number of seizures and raids in Kyrgyzstan.

One day ago, Russia's Ambassador to Kyrgyzstan said that during the pogroms in the villages outside Bishkek, Russians were attacked. There have been reports that the rioters “burst into the house of a Russian family and demanded that the Russians be tossed out.”

Pogroms in the villages Mayevka and Lenin began on April 19. A large crowd of looters seized land on which farmers grew wheat, and began to divide the land among themselves. The looters clashed with the locals, and then marched toward the capital of Kyrgyzstan, where they were stopped by security forces.

Riots outside of Bishkek continued until the evening, with looters throwing stones, smashing cars, burning houses, and fighting with villagers. Police officers, government security forces, and armored personnel carriers were sent to the village of Mayevka. As a result of the rioting and looting, five people were killed, including several from gunshot wounds. The next day, looters, local residents and police continued to clash.

Um... Is this to ensure the safety of Russian *citizens* only? Or does this also apply to ethnic Russians who are citizens of Kyrgyzstan? Food for thought.

Wednesday, April 14, 2010

Tuesday, September 09, 2008

ESL teachers needed in Russia!

The American Home, the school in Vladimir, Russia where I taught from August 2005-June 2006, is urgently in need of two teachers, as two of this year's teachers must return home due to family illnesses. It was a great place to work, and while the salary is not large, it is plenty to live on in Vladimir. If you are interested, please let me know.

Saturday, May 10, 2008

Thoughts on Language Acquisition

I was talking to someone the other day (I forget who), and this individual brought up the fact that Condoleeza Rice’s Russian is “so bad.” This person thought it was reprehensible that someone who studied Russian in university spoke the language so poorly. But the thing is, I completely understand.

In order to maintain one’s foreign language abilities, one must constantly practice and study. I received my BA in Russian in 2001. At that time, my spoken Russian, while not fluent, was pretty damn good. However, from Summer 2001 to Summer 2005, I neither practiced nor studied Russian. Additionally, during that time I made two extensive trips to South Korea, traveled all over Costa Rica, and lived in Southern California within walking distance of the Mexican border. By the time I returned to Russia in August 2005, my Russian skills had greatly diminished; I spoke something I referred to as Spanglorusskikonglish.

I was in Russia from August 2005 through June 2006, during which time my Russian language skills returned to roughly the same level they were at my time of graduation. Of course, this was mainly due to the fact that I lived with a host family and took regular Russian lessons, as most of my friends were English speakers.

After leaving Russia, I spent a year in Korea. Despite three trips to Korea, my Korean is still essentially nonexistent. I can order food, purchase things, ask for directions and direct a taxi to my destination. I can even tell people that I’m an English teacher from the United States. But that’s it; that’s the extent of my Korean. Nonetheless, after a year of hearing only Korean spoken (and occasionally struggling to study it), my Russian levels once again dropped.

I came to Bishkek – a predominantly Russian speaking city – in January of this year, and I was pleased to discover that my Russian comprehension was still quite high. Unfortunately, I haven’t gotten much language practice since I’ve been here. In general, my Russian speaking consists of practicalities: ordering food, purchasing things, asking for directions, directing taxis and telling people where I’m from and what I’m doing here. I live alone, don’t have time for Russian lessons, most of my friends are English speakers, and the school’s staff (for the most part) speaks English. Additionally, for most Kyrgyz speakers of Russian, Russian is their second language, and their spoken Russian is often filled with mistakes. (Case endings? Who needs those?)

It wasn’t until my trip to Karakol with Sara and Sasha from Vladimir that I realized just how bad my spoken Russian had become. Our trip was really the first time since leaving Vladimir that I’d had a lengthy conversation in Russian in which I couldn’t cheat by replying in English. The realization of the quality of my spoken Russian – or lack thereof – was hammered home the other night at Anton’s when one of the Russian guys told me, “Your accent is okay, but your grammar is terrible!” Sigh.

I can’t decide how I feel about this.

One of the main reasons I went to Russia in 2005 was to rebuild my Russian so that I could get a job with an NGO working with Russia. However, if you’ve read through my Hermit Manifesto, you know that I completely changed course while in Russia. Now I want to focus on teaching ESL, and eventually, I’ll probably get my MA in Applied Linguistics.

I’m not sure how Russian fits into all of this. As it is, I’m currently trying (albeit not too successfully) to study Kyrgyz, and I’m already planning to teach in the Middle East next year. I’d hate to lose my Russian skills, but I’m not certain that there will be much benefit to knowing Russian in my future, and therefore I’m not entirely sure that it would be worth the effort I’d need to expend to keep it up.

Meanwhile, so many of my students simply don’t seem to understand that effort is required to learn a foreign language. Here’s a set of the sort of questions I am asked all the time: How can I learn English faster? I need to speak fluent English by [date in the near future]; what can I do? How quickly can I reach Advanced? Can I move up a level? (Inevitably followed by an indignant Why not?) My advice to all of them is that they simply must study and practice constantly; they must stop worrying about skipping levels and focus on learning everything they need to know to pass their current level by heart. So many seem to think that there must be some way to learn English overnight and there simply isn’t.

Sunday, December 23, 2007

I'm back in the Deep South...

I spent the past week in upstate New York visiting my friend Youngmee and her family. It was a very laid back and totally awesome trip... we ate tons of Korean food (kimchi for breakfast, anyone?), went to a Korean Chinese restaurant (jiajianmyun!), took a belly dancing lesson (oh, how obvious it was that I hadn't done that since June 2006), ate really chocolatey stuff all the time, baked a pecan pie, watched Cheburashka, Vinni Pookh, and The Italian, AND she and her mom have gotten me hooked on Jumong, the most addictive TV show since Battlestar Galactica. Awesomeness.

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It barely got above freezing once while I was there...


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Look! Moosh and I are in non-Russian snow!


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Can you find the Konglish? Are the shrimp frightened?


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Youngmee baked a totally delicious pie.
I contributed the south GA pecans and my eating skills.

Tuesday, November 27, 2007

Oh, Vlad.

You thought our upcoming election was going to be interesting?
We've got nothing on Russia when it comes to interesting.
Listen.

Thursday, November 22, 2007

Just in time for holiday shopping madness...

I've got everything you've always wanted right here! Okay, perhaps these aren't necessarily things you've always wanted, but I'd bet you'd definitely enjoy having them nonetheless... especially if you enjoy my photography. (All photographs featured in the items below were taken by yours truly!) Check out what I'm offering for sale - and click on the links if you're interested in purchasing them. The products are sold through lulu.com, which is a secure site for your online shopping safety. (And for you cats overseas, lulu.com does offer international shipping!)

Photographs from Korea
Photographs from Korea $25
This book contains thirty pages of full color photographs featuring images from all over the Korean peninsula, throughout all four seasons.

Photographs of Vladimir
Photographs of Vladimir $25
This book contains thirty pages of full color photographs of the historic city of Vladimir, the ancient capital of Russia.

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Photographs from Siberia $25
This book contains twenty-seven pages of full color photographs from my journey eastward along the Trans-Siberian Railroad to Irkutsk, the famed "Paris of Siberia," and into the wilderness surrounding Russia's spectacular Lake Baikal.

2008 Calendar: South Korea
South Korea 2008 Calendar $15
This full color 2008 calendar contains beautiful photographs from across South Korea, throughout all four seasons!

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Cats and Kittens 2008 Calendar $15
This full color, twelve month 2008 calendar features twelve of our adorable rescued cats and kittens. Together, my mom and I currently care for roughly twenty-five cats - all rescued strays. Proceeds from the sale of this calendar go to benefit our kitties!

Prisoner of Wonderland
Prisoner of Wonderland: An ESL Misadventure $7.99
This sixty-nine page book recounts my harrowing first trip to South Korea in 2001.

PLEASE READ: If you are interested in purchasing any of the books for sale at amazon.com which I've linked to on the lower right column of my blog under the heading of recommended books, please follow the link here before purchasing, and I'll get a tiny percentage of the profit from the sale! In general, if you're interested in making a purchase from amazon.com, please use the search funtion on the lower right side of this blog - I will earn a small percentage for any sale made after using that search box! Thank you for your help :-)

Friday, September 21, 2007

Blanket the Dawn

I spent seven months in Russia during my Junior year of college, back in 2000. One morning in early April I awoke after having a particularly intense dream. I immediately sat down and wrote the dream out in story form, then, for some reason, I folded my tale up, stuffed the pages into an envelope, and mailed them off to my mom. Over the years I had completely forgotten what the story was about, and all I remembered of it was the ending - and the fact that I'd sent away my only copy.

Yesterday, as I was unpacking a box full of items of mine which had been at my mom's house, I stumbled upon my story! It was eerie reading it, as I knew the last few sentences, but could recall nothing more of the tale - yet there it was, penned in my handwriting from seven and a half years ago. I decided to type it up so that I could share it with you.

I'm sure that at the time I felt I was being quite clever, incorporating Russian words into the names of people and places, although looking back, perhaps I overdid it a bit on that score. And I named the bad guy Zloiman. Jeez, Jane. Those of you who know Russian might notice how that's hardly clever. Sigh. Nonetheless, here is my tale:

Blanket the Dawn

War raged through the tiny republic of Vorobstan, and the tiny, once pristine land was devastated. While the impressive, snow capped mountains still glimmered in the chilly spring sun on the western border, while their melting ices fed the brisk waters of the River Dawn, and while the Dawn flowed eastward into the sun and into the sea, oblivious to the war, the land remained saddened, rent and torn by the fierceness of the constant fighting.

The war had raged across this once peaceful land for over a century. No one really remembered how, or even why, it had begun. Some said it had begun as a question of kingship; others maintained the root cause was the mutual love of two brothers. No one remembered for certain; the origins of the struggle were shrouded in Time’s veil, lost behind the impenetrable memories of blood and death.

The future of the Vorobstan Vale, that once incomparable paradise between the mountains and the sea, looked bleak; the Svobodnayans and the Chortans had reached a stalemate. All battles boiled down to one-on-one combat, Master Fighter to Master Fighter. Equal in skill and equal in strength, the one could never defeat the other, and so the conflict stagnated.

Helena Chistaya stumbled across the barren, rocky ground toward her makeshift tent. Her bare feet and legs were covered in a layer of mud; she has not bathed since before the last major campaign had forced the few civilian Svobodnayans to flee from yet another temporary home. Helena wiped a tear from her cheek with a dirty finger and smoothed her threadbare dress. The constant fighting didn’t sadden Helena, nor did the threat that at any moment she might be forced to flee, or even to face death. Helena was nineteen, and she had lived this life for nineteen years. Yet tears continued slowly etching an estuary of brackish lines down her cheeks, and she stumbled, weary from grief.

As Helena walked to her tent, she left behind her a crowd of Svobodnayans, gathered about a funeral Pyre. She had never cried at a Pyre before, but never before had the fire’s warm tongues licked the faces of those so dear. Warren Umnato, Chieftain of the Svobodnayans, Wise Leader and Master Fighter, brought down by Ernstlan Bezcovest, Master Fighter of the Chortans, was foremost atop the Pyre. It was he for whom nearly all of the Svobodnayans wept. Yet hidden, engulfed within the mass of flame lay the dwindling remains of the two people whom Helena had held most dear: her brother Thomas and her sister Elspeth.

A raid on the fleeing civilians, a rarity during a pitched battle, had separated Helena from her siblings. Helena had fallen into a rocky gully, where she had lain hidden, camouflaged under a bracket of thorny briars. She had seen her brother and sister, snatched from the fleeing crowd and forced by two Chortan soldiers to kneel in front of another Chortan of seemingly higher rank. This soldier had closed his eyes and placed a hand each on the heads of Thomas and Elspeth. His long red hair had swirled about his head, and the muscles of his face had twitched as his jaw clenched. Elspeth had screamed and fallen prostrate on the ground, only to be forced back into her former position by one of the soldiers.

Soon after, Thomas and Elspeth began shrieking with such pain and terror, that Helena shook uncontrollably from the sound. The rocks below her ground into her flesh, and the thorns above her stabbed and pulled, but all she could see, hear, feel, live was the dreadful spectacle in front of her. She had not noticed the moment when the sword of Ernstlan Bezcovest pierced the heart of Warren Umnato, for at that very moment the bodies of her two siblings had collapsed to the ground, lifeless.

Helena watched the strange Chortan soldier look down upon her motionless kin, and knew in her soul that they were dead. She watched his face, memorized his face, hated his face, hated his soul. From the distance at which she had lain, she had not seen the single tear which had fallen as he turned away.

The Svobodnayans entered a new time of uncertainty. Warren Umnato had been succeeded by his only son and heir, Warson, a newly anointed Master Fighter. But could such a novice withstand the strength of the Chortan beast who had felled his father and teacher? Morale was low. Listlessly Helena roamed the Svobodnayan camp, surrounded by grieving thousands, yet utterly alone.

Samuel Zloiman had a gift – a rarity among Chortans. It wasn’t that he could read minds, not exactly. He had the ability to focus his thoughts through the minds of others, and in doing so, he could cause them to view his outward appearance in any shape he so chose. With direct physical contact, he could mentally channel his desires into the minds of others, thus changing the outcomes of otherwise predetermined events. The memories of those he so touched would be embedded upon his memory forever after.

Samuel Zloiman was twenty-eight. Twenty years ago he had killed his only friend. For the next eighteen years he had done his best to keep to himself, and he had kept his gift – his curse – a secret. He practiced his magic seldom, always in solitude, never forgetting the moment he placed his hand on his eight year old twin and so lost him forever.

Samuel was an excellent warrior; even without use of his curse he was a true gift to the Chortan cause. But such a powerful secret could not remain hidden forever and eventually, in the heat of battle, his curse saved his life. Samuel had caught the left arm of a Svobodnayan soldier, seconds before his opponent’s arm should have completed the task of skewering him. Instead, the bewildered Svobodnayan had turned his sword on himself. This event went unremarked by all, save Samuel and Ernstlan Bezcovest.

For two years, out of loyalty to his people, and under direct orders from the Chortan Master Fighter himself, Samuel searched the minds of his enemies from afar, looking for one through whom he could channel in order to weaken the Master Fighters of the Svobodnayans. Eventually, Samuel had found three.

He had not expected their deaths to be so slow and painful. Whether it was the type of channeling – the second-hand weakening of a Master Fighter – their Svobodnayan blood, or simply a further punishment of his curse, Samuel did not know. But as he had touched them, the young man and woman who knelt in front of him screaming in pain and terror, he had felt their pain, their thoughts, their lives course through him. And he had seen his brother. His pain mingled with theirs as they collapsed, as Warren Umnato collapsed, as the mirage of his mirror image collapsed. He waved away the guards who had held the two unfortunate victims of his power, and gazed down at their bodies, hoping that Ernstlan Bezcovest would be strong enough to defeat Warson Umnato without having to call upon his curse a second time.

Samuel let fall a silent tear for the victims of his gift – these two strangers, his brother – how they intermingled in his mind. As he turned and walked away, Samuel did not see the solitary figure of a thin girl in a tattered brown dress rise from the ground. He had done his best to push his mental powers aside, otherwise the force of her hatred would have overwhelmed him completely.

Several weeks passed following the deaths of Helena’s kin. Life continued its pathetic struggle: day after day – fight, flee, hide, kill, die – the habits of a war-torn nation. Warson Umnato proved to be as valiant and capable a leader as his father, and the stagnation, Master opposing Master, continued.

Unknown to Helena, an investigation into the death of Warren Umnato had uncovered a strange truth. Koralnik Tan, a member of the elite Svobodnayan Guard known to have a touch of telepathy, had, at the instant of Umnato’s death, been overwhelmed by the influx into his soul of the emotions of two Svobodnayans whom he barely knew. The force of their emotions – pure, raw terror – combined with an onslaught of unfamiliar memories had caused him to fall, powerless and confused, to his knees. Those who witnessed the fall of Warren Umnato claimed to have seen a similar spasm of bewilderment and fear flit across his face, as though he were remembering something distant, painful and wholly unexpected, the moment before his heart was stopped forever by the blade of Bezcovest.

Due to the confusion and grief brought about by the Chieftain’s death, the investigation did not establish a connection with Koralnik Tan for several weeks. But eventually, the connection was made: psychic tampering, channeled through the innocent minds of the Chistayas. It was confirmed that the strange raid on the civilian encampment during the heat of battle had been directed at the location of the Chistaya family. Warson, Koralnik and the Svobodnayan Guard did not know why the Chistayas had been selected; however, they knew that Helena, the only surviving member of the Chistaya clan, must be protected at all costs. The life of Master Fighter Warson depended on it.

Helena had taken the news calmly, and resigned herself to a life even more constantly surrounded by soldiery than it had been before. She was to be protected by the members of the Svobodnayan Guard at all times, and Koralnik Tan was to remain always in her vicinity, on the chance that he could predict the advance of the psychic Chortan warrior.

Koralnik Tan and those other Svobodnayans known to have small psychic abilities worked together to devise a technique to protect both Helena and Warson: they crafted a mental shield, such that Chortan warrior could only channel through her if she touched him willingly. All felt safer.

As weeks passed, young Helena began to grow quite fond of Koralnik Tan. Koralnik, having witnessed in his soul for a few brief seconds what had taken Thomas and Elspeth their lives to live, had much to tell their grieving sister. Every day they walked together, every day they talked, and every day their walks took them farther from the center of the Svobodnayan encampment. Sometimes other members of the Svobodnayan Guard would accompany them, but more often than not, the wandered unchaperoned. Helena would never willingly touch her enemy, and Koralnik was an experienced member of the elite Guard, what harm could come?

So it happened that Helena and Koralnik strolled together, with only each other for company, amongst the bramble and stunted trees near the Dawn. Added to the weight of her grief over the loss of her siblings, Helena’s heart suffered under a new load. Despite the fact that day upon day she and Koralnik revealed their innermost thoughts to one another, his behavior towards Helen remained merely that of a Svobodnayan Guard performing his duties. Yet day by day, Helena began to know that what she felt for this man was not the mere gratitude she might feel towards a protector. So there it was, on the blighted landscape along the Dawn that Helena looked up at Koralnik and asked, “Are you certain that I am protected from this evil psychic Chortan?”

“You know you’re safe while the Guard is near,” he replied. “Besides, I know you would never willingly touch someone so vile as he.”

For once, something in his eyes spurred her on. She smiled coquettishly, and snaked her hand through his arm, saying “What? Like this?”

All notions of reality rocked to a standstill. The face of trusted Koralnik melted, twisted and suddenly Helena was face to face with the only individual for whom she had ever harbored hatred. Her mind barely had time to register the fact that she had willingly grasped the forbidden arm of the psychic Chortan warrior before her body was enveloped by an indescribable pain. It was greater than anything she, in her nineteen years of hardship, had ever known. Consciousness faded. Reality was encased in a cold, black mist of pain.

She didn’t feel him lift her off the ground. She didn’t realize how far he carried her. All she knew was the pain. She begged him to stop. Please. She would do anything, anything, only let it end. After what could have been hours, seconds, days or minutes, the pain changed. It intensified in strength, and suddenly, with an explosive force, her entire soul was flooded with the lifetime memories of Samuel Zloiman.

The pain ceased. She lay in a corner of a strange green tent, a dazed and huddled mass. Samuel knelt over her and touched her cheek. She said nothing, didn’t move. Samuel spoke softly. “I will take care of you, I promise. I must do this, I have no choice, but I will take care of you. Can I get you anything? Anything at all?”

They stared at each other, their eyes locked. They had exchanged a lifetime of memories, expressed to each other the inexpressible. Theirs was an intimacy beyond description, and they were beyond words.

Helena trembled violently. “A blanket please. Just a blanket.”

If you believe in god, pray that the inner workings of another’s soul are never laid bare within your own.

Imagine Helena, first faced with the one for whom she harbored the most enmity, then – after barely enough time to register that fact – had the flood of his memories, experiences, emotions, joys, and sorrows of this individual forced through to the core of her soul. Suddenly she understood why he had done everything which he had done, why he had fought so long against her people, why he must continue to use his power, why his power haunted him though his life, terrifying and saddening him.

Imagine Samuel, faced with a complete stranger who, through psychic manipulations, he had tricked into betraying her people. A complete stranger, who, for the service of his people and his Master, he must inevitably kill with his power. Samuel, after a lifetime of friendlessness had suddenly become privy to the deepest secrets of this stranger, engendering a bond between them such as he had never before known with anyone.

And Samuel knew that the next time he channeled his power through her, she would die. And Helena knew. And Samuel knew that she knew.

Helena, wrapped in a blanket, her knees pulled up to her chest, shivered in a corner of the tent. Opposite her, attempting to appear calm, sat Samuel. They awaited the news: what was the outcome of the battle? Had Samuel’s channeling been enough to sufficiently weaken young Warson? Or would his services again be needed? They didn’t speak; it wasn’t necessary. And when the news came, they both knew how it would end.

Hand in hand they walked from the tent. With her free hand, Helena grasped tightly the blanket which still wound about her body. The estuarine tracks on her face matched those on his.

Hand to hand, sword to sword, skilled move to skilled move, Warson met Bezcovest under the waning moonlight.

Hand in hand, Samuel and Helena approached the Dawn, approached the battle, approached the end. He kissed her once, lightly, released her hand, and pressed both his palms to his temples. It was over within seconds.

Helena stood on the bank of the Dawn, watching its icy waters, blood red from the battle, course past Samuel’s lifeless body, prone on the shoreline. She unwound the blanket from about her body, spread it over his figure and waded out into the swift, tumultuous water. The icy chill of the mountain-fed Dawn numbed her arms and legs, and she allowed the current to carry her eastward to the sea, where Dawn met dawn, and she was free.

Meanwhile war, in stagnation, raged behind.

Jane E. Keeler
06 April 2000

Monday, August 06, 2007

By popular opinion.....

While I do certainly prefer flickr to JPG as far as a photo site goes, what makes JPG fantastic is that selected photos get published in JPG Magazine - and if your photo gets published, you get $100. Woohoo. That's why I'm always encouraging you cats to vote for my photos :-) Also, JPG doesn't automatically publish the photos with the most votes, but the staff do review the ones with the most votes and favorites first, so they have a better chance of being reviewed (and selected!). So, that being said, pretty please click here and vote for my photo. You have to be registered and logged in for your vote to count, but it's free :-) Thank you, thank you!

Friday, August 03, 2007

Happy Anniversary! (And some Siberia stuff)

I have been in Korea for a full year now! I can hardly believe it - time has flown! It seems like just the other day I was in Russia... and now I have been here for a full year. Wow.

Speaking of Russia, owing to the popularity of my Siberia photo (er, see the previous post if you're confused), I've decided to submit a Siberia photo collection and essay to the Passport theme at JPG Magazine. Sadly, you can only submit 10 photos, so I decided to limit my photo-essay to Lake Baikal and Olkhon Island. Please check it out - and don't forget to VOTE! (Remember, you must be registered/signed-in for your vote to count, but registration is free and easy.)

I would still like to submit a single photo to the Passport theme as well. I'm not sure if I should submit one of the Siberia photo-essay photos, or if I should submit something different. Please let me know what you think - your advice will most definitely be appreciated!

Surreal Siberia

Thursday, August 02, 2007

Your advice please! Help!

Well, while I'm still waiting on the results for whose photos will appear in JPG Magazine's Issue 12, they've already announced one of the themes for Issue 13: Passport. This is how they describe this theme:

A passport is an invitation to see the world. Exotic destinations, new places, unique discoveries; travel photography is a way to bring the world home. For this theme we'd like to see photos that show us the destinations that you find most exciting in the world. Where is that special place that you can't stop talking about?

Now, we all know that travel photography is what I live for... but how can I choose just one photograph?! Please leave me your comment and tell me which one is your choice! (Also, if you wish to see a larger version of any of the pictures, just click on them! To view all of these photos large-size in a slide show,
click here.)

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#1 Monastery in Suzdal

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#2 Sergiev Posad Trinity Monastery

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#3 Sergiev Posad Trinity Monastery, a closer look

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#4 A motorcyclist on Lake Baikal, Siberia

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#5 Macro Mini Snow Buddha

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#6 Carving @ Haeinsa Temple

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#7 Flower fields of GyeongJu

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#8 Carving @ Beomeosa Temple

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#9 Girl with Chick

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#10 Cathedrals of Vladimir

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#11 Spirit of Burkhan

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#12 Bullo Dong Tombs

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#13 Bogolyubsky Monastery

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#14 Barbecue on the Rocks

Sunday, July 22, 2007

Boo :-(

Well, it seems that I won't be going to Siberia next month after all. See, in order to go to Russia, you need to have a visa. In order to get a visa, you must first receive a visa invitation from the person, organization or travel agency which is sponsoring your entry into Russia. The person, organization or travel agency must apply to a visa office in Russia to receive the official visa invitation. I had been told that my invitation would be ready as of July 18th, at which point they would express mail it to me here in Korea.

Once I had the invitation in hand, I would take it down to the Russian consulate in Busan to apply for my visa. Now, you can get your visa in one day... if you want to pay something like $400. The longer you're able to wait for your visa, the cheaper it is. As such, I was very much hoping to have that invitation in hand as soon as possible. Then last night I received an email saying that my invitation would not be ready until August 10th. It would still have to be express mailed to me... that starts putting me in the iffy super-close-to-departure zone (I'd planned to fly to Irkutsk on August 25th). It also puts me in the paying-out-the-ass-for-my-visa zone. Boo.

I thought about this late into the night last night (hell, I even dreamt about it), and I've come to the depressing conclusion that it's probably best to cancel this adventure. For one thing, I need to know for certain when I'm leaving Korea, so that I can make flight arrangements for Mia. I'd hate to have everything arranged for a flight home in mid-September, only to have to make last minute arrangements to fly home at the end of August. Especially since they might not be able to accomodate a cat on the plane at the last minute. I'm feeling pretty bummed about this, although I suppose it's for the best. I'm also wondering what I will ever use a sleeping bag that can keep one toasty down to temps of 0F (-18C) if not for camping in Siberia? Sigh.

Saturday, July 21, 2007

Putin’s Russia: All of this has happened before; all of this will happen again

This is a post on Russia’s political history. It probably won’t be interesting to a lot of you, but I was inspired to write this up by some comments left the other day regarding Putin. My apologies to my readers who come here looking for info on Korea :-) Before I begin this post, I want to provide a little bit of my personal background in this area so you’ll know where I’m coming from. When I was in college, I double majored in Russian (language and culture) and international politics (with a focus on US-Russian relations). I earned my degree in 2001, and since then I’ve simply been a dilettante when it comes to studying these topics. I am by no means an expert. I am also not a sociologist. I’ve never taken any classes in sociology, so all of my ideas pertaining to group behavior which I’ll present here are simply based on my personal observations on the ways people behave.

The first thing you need to know about my little theory is that I’m a believer in cyclical history. As they say in Battlestar Galactica’ religious philosophy, all of this has happened before, all of this will happen again. From examining my own life and the patterns (both good and bad) which continue repeating themselves, to examining historical patterns – in which humanity doesn’t seem to learn from it’s mistakes – it appears obvious to me that there are patterns of behavior visible throughout history. It would also seem to make sense that people from one culture would follow patterns of behavior different from people of another culture. (In other words, just because the USA follows one set of political behavioral patterns, it doesn’t follow that all other countries in the world should easily adhere to the same patterns. This would be one reason why Bush’s ideas for turning Iraq into a Middle Eastern bastion of democracy didn’t fly quite like the administration thought it would.)

In 2000, while studying Russian politics and history (in Russia, actually), I began to notice patterns which really stuck in my mind – to the point that I decided to write my senior honors thesis on it the following year. Don’t worry, I won’t subject you to the entire thing; it makes for quite dull reading. Instead, let me give you an interesting timeline to muse on:

• Approximately 1040AD – The Medieval monarch Iaroslav the Wise of Kievan Rus (the early Russian state) implements a written code of laws dealing with retribution for murder, accidental death or injury, reimbursement and repayment of debts, recovery of stolen property, etc, in an unbiased legal fashion. This code of laws applied only to free males (although free males did exist in all strata of society) but nonetheless it was remarkably advanced for its time.
• The Boyar Duma and veche traditions begin. The Boyar Duma was a council of nobles, which was created to advise the prince in all matters. The veche was a public gathering of free citizens from all strata of society which gathered regularly to voice their opinions. While the princes weren’t required to consult with the veche like they were the Duma, they often did nontheless.

At this point in time, Kievan Rus was the most liberal state in Medieval Europe. Then something happened in 1223AD to totally squash liberal democratic political movements: the Mongols invaded. Dictatorship of princes who kowtowed to the Mongols began, and these dictators (erm, Tsars) retained their power after the Mongols had finally been kicked to the curb. (I should point out that the Kievan province of Novgorod was able to maintain independence from the Mongol rule by negotiating a tribute system. This enabled even greater political advances in Novgorod than had happened in Kievan Rus: the Duma and veche dismissed the prince and elected their own leaders. This lasted until the late 15th century when Ivan III sent troops from Moscow to utterly crush Novgorod and bring the province under the mantle of Moscow.)

Until the 19th century, there was nothing remotely democratic to be found within Russia. The 19th century saw the following:
• The Decembrist Revolt of 1825 – Russian Army officers refused to acknowledge the legitimacy of the new Tsar and tried to bring about a revolt to topple the Tsardom and replace it with a constitution. It failed miserably. The top leaders were publicly hanged and the others were exiled to Siberia.
• 1855 – Tsar Alexander II takes the throne. He allowed a relaxation in restrictions enabling various interest groups to form throughout Russia. These groups enabled people of all strata to organize around various political/social issues.
• 1861- Tsar Alexander II emancipates the serfs
• 1864 – Tsar Alexander II passes the Zemstvo Statute. This created a system of local councils, or zemstva, the members of which were elected directly by nobles and middle class townsmen, and indirectly by the peasantry (former serfs). This was the first time that all classes of Russian society had any say in Imperial Russian government. In 1864, the Tsar also established an independent court system modeled on western styles of jurisprudence.
• Near the end of his reign, Alexander II was seriously considering implementing an elected body akin to a parliament, whose role would be to advise the Tsar. This was still under consideration at the time of his death.
• 1881 – Alexander II was assassinated.

The new Tsar, Alexander III was wholly uninterested in reforms, the development of representative government, or in anything else which might erode his power. While he didn’t dismantle any of the reforms put in place by his father, he prevented further reforms and strengthened the autocracy.

In 1894, Alexander III died and Nicholas II assumed the throne. He held the same autocratic views as his father, although he didn’t have the same strength necessary to quell reformers.

Under Nicholas II, the following happened:
• 1904 – the National Congress of Zemstva was held. They gave Nicholas II a document demanding individual rights, civil equality, freedom of the press and of assembly, and the development of a legislative system. The Tsar essentially told them to take a hike.
• December 1904-January 1905 – A peaceful strike led by leaders of a newly created union was fired upon by Imperial troops. Reports ranged from 96 dead to several thousand dead, depending on the source. No one really knows for sure.
• October 1905 - St. Petersburg Council (Soviet) of Workers was formed as a representative of the working classes, in an attempt to increase their rights. The Soviet gained so much support, that Nicholas II realized he had to concede somewhat to their demands in order to retain his throne. He signed the October Manifesto, which granted various individual freedoms and created a Duma (parliament).
• 1906 – The first Duma elections were held. The make-up of the first parliament was so liberal that Nicholas II dissolved it and called for new elections. The second Duma was elected… and was even more liberal than the first. Nicholas II dissolved it as well.
• 1907 – Nicholas II changed the property qualifications for voting – meaning that only the nobles could vote for Duma representatives – leading to the election of a very conservative and weak third Duma.
• March 1917 – fed up with Nicholas II and his lack of willingness to allow reforms, the masses finally rise up and revolt. A provisional government was formed, which intended to create a democratic state.

This seemed pretty promising… but a democratic government can’t pop into place over night. Given the needs of the masses and the weaknesses in the infrastructure the provisional government inherited, the masses were not content, despite the regime change. The inability to placate the masses led to continued revolution…

• October 1917 – the Bolsheviks (under Lenin) led a revolt against the provisional government, leading to three years of civil war, culminating in the establishment of the Soviet Union.
• 1927 – Stalin takes control. Political participation was forcibly limited to state-sponsored activities.

Certainly there were acts of opposition to the Soviet government during the decades of its regime, but they were not organized democratic participatory acts. At least not until Gorbachev arrived.

• 1985 – Gorbachev becomes General Secretary of the Soviet Union. Policies of glastnost and perestroika were implemented. Glastnost was the making known to the masses of everything that had been kept from public knowledge throughout the existence of the Soviet Union. Perestroika was as a restructuring of the Soviet system, in order to establish a democratic and self-governing system. Censorship was relaxed, organizations were allowed to form, and people began discussing their political situation.
• In the late 1980s, elections which seemed quite democratic were held… the Soviet Union seemed to be slowly turning into a democracy. But, things were moving slowly and the masses didn’t want to wait.
• 1991 – Boris Yeltsin leads a coup, effectively ending the Soviet Union. Yeltsin becomes president of the Russian Federation.

At this point in time, everyone in the west hailed this as a great victory for democracy and capitalism, and seemed to believe that from here on out Russia would be a booming capitalist democracy much like the US. People seem so damn surprised that it’s not. Well, seriously. Look at Russia’s history. Look at how Russia’s people will be content for decades – even centuries – under a repressive regime, only rising up and revolting when things finally become intolerable. Most of the time the masses are apathetic. Take a look at how nearly ALL of the democratic reforms that have occurred over there through the ages were implemented AT THE TOP, when an enlightened leader (Iaroslav, Alexander II, Gorbachev) felt that the country needed more political participation/reforms. Notice how when government leaders try to slowly implement reforms in a nice, logical manner, this leads to either revolt from below of quashing from above. Russia is the most stable under strong, authoritarian leaders. Why is the current situation in Russia a surprise to anyone?

Here’s a bit of an anecdotal story about the apathy of the Russian masses, and how they differ in political behavior from your average American citizen. Under the Soviet Union, a centralized system was created to provide hot water to the masses. Most Russians still get their hot water from central hot water sources. This means that for most of the year, your average Russian has unlimited hot water. Unfortunately, for a few weeks to a month or so every summer, the hot water is shut off for routine maintenance. That’s a few weeks to a month or so of no hot water. (And let me tell you, cold tap water in Russia – even in the summer – is REALLY cold.) Now, obviously in the US the government doesn’t supply us with hot water… but just imagine for a moment that it did. Imagine for a moment how the populace would react if every summer there was a month or so of no hot water. People would be writing/calling/emailing/visiting everyone from their local city council to their state and national representatives, lobbying to get this situation remedied ASAP. You know what the Russians do when the hot water goes out? They simply deal with it.

Sunday, July 08, 2007

Look what now lives in my camera:

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(Because I couldn't go to Siberia with merely 512mb now could I?)

Saturday, June 30, 2007

Rooftop booze and plane tickets

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Last night
Rob invited a few of us over to his place for dinner - yum!

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Again.... yum!

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Kim brought 2 liters of sake....

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Oddly enough, this guy is going to be in Irkutsk on the same day as me, staying in the same hostel! Well, he's actually going to be leaving on the same day I'm flying in, but still - how odd is that?

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We spent a good bit of time on the rooftop of Rob's building.

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Anyone familiar with the Korean game deebeedeebeedeep?

This morning I went to Kangsan Travel to purchase my plane ticket to Russia! I don't have my visa yet, so I made sure that I can cancel my ticket and get a refund if something goes wrong and I have to cancel it. Anyway, I'll be flying from Seoul-Incheon to Vladivostok and from there to Irkutsk on August 25, and I'll be coming back to Korea on September 14. (And, of course, Mia and I will be flying back to the US shortly thereafter.) Here's hoping I get my visa without any problems!

Kangsan Travel is located right in front of the front gate of the US Army base, Camp Walker. When I was on Camp Walker back in 2004, I frequently saw a white dog with eyeglasses. At first I thought he just had weird markings, but soon I realized that someone had drawn the eyeglasses on the dog. Oddly enough, guess what I saw chained up near Camp Walker and Kangsan Travel:

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Sunday, June 24, 2007

The start of the rainy season and other updates from Korea

For weeks now, weather.com has been predicting torrential rain every day for the forseeable future. And for the past few weeks they have been horribly wrong. Well, it seems that the rain has finally caught up to their predictions. It has been pouring on and off for the past several days, and the dry spaces in between downpours have been incredibly hot and muggy. Now that the rains have begun, I'm slightly more inclined to believe weather.com's forecast. Sigh. I mean, I like rain - and it's been wonderful to lay in bed listening to it - but it's not exactly conducive to exploring.

Meanwhile, I've started gearing up - in the most literal sense - for my trip to Siberia. Since my visa invitation is in the works, and since I've been in contact with a travel agent who has located a reasonable round-trip from Seoul to Irkutsk, I figured it was time to start shopping for
all the crap I'm going to have to bring with me. A couple of years ago, Frank gave me a really nice backpack, which I love - even though it smells vaguely of cat pee (thanks a lot, Ollie). It was the bag that went with me on my previous trip to Siberia. Unfortunately, while I love that bag, it's not really big enough for all the crap I'm going to have to bring this time around. As such, yesterday in a reasonably rain-free stretch of time, I went in search of a bigger backpack. I ended up spending way too much money on a Millet, but it is wonderful. I'm not too big a fan of the color, but it was the only choice. They did, however, give me a free waterproof backpack cover in neon orange!

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I have also managed to acquire a waterproof rain jacket and waterproof camera case (both courtesy of The Red Face - Korea's answer to The North Face), and two quick-drying hiking shirts from woman selling them super-cheap outside of NAIS Mart. All of those are - quite oddly - in bright fuschia. I mean, that comes in third after lime green and neon orange, but it's going to be odd, me being so outfitted in pink and all! I also ordered a pair of hiking shoes. They're in baby blue, as that color was on sale. I am now really, really poor; my wallet is crying out in pain.

And speaking of crying out in pain... I have recently been feeding a stray cat that's been hanging around. (Not like I need any more cats in my life or anything!) I've been calling him (or her) Stray Gray, for self explanitory reasons. Last week, I was kept awake most of the night by this plaintive meowing. In the morning when I awoke, I could still hear a cat outside crying, so I went in search of it. Stray Gray was hanging out on the walkway/porch on the back side of my apartment. Part of that porch/walkway is covered, as it's where a lot of the electical boxes for the villa are located, and that's where I've been putting out food and water. Anyway, Stray Gray eats more in one day than Mia eats in a week, so I've been going out there a good bit. This afternoon I refilled SG's food and water bowls. And then stood up, bashing my head quite solidly into the corner of one of the metal electrical boxes with such force that I promptly sat down, and remained sitting, dazed, for a good five minutes. Now I have a very tender and rather large lump on my head, and splitting headache. As if I needed more things to trigger splitting headaches. Sheesh. Thank goodness for Excedrin.